May Gardening Guide

May is full spring, and therefore one of the busiest gardening months of the year. And it doesn't last long enough! Before you know it, it's Memorial Day.

So use this month to prepare flowerbeds, plant seeds - indoors and outdoors - and put in new nursery plants.

Also put down new mulch, do some pruning and sprinkle some Preen around, along with fertilizer and soil amendments. You should also check for pests and apply pesticides.

As for the lawn, May is a great time to put down some seed patch, keeping it well watered, and spreading another round of weed-and-feed (except in the seed-patch areas).

And you'll probably be hand-digging at least some dandelions out of the turf and garden.

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The great thing is that May weather is usually glorious, except for a few showers. But those are normally quite welcome to gardeners.

Since there is so much to do this month, it makes more sense than ever to decide what's important to you and focus on those activities.

Time-wise, spend the first part of May in preparing flowerbeds and caring for the lawn. If you started these tasks in April and March, so much the better!

Remember the Mother's Day Rule on planting outdoors in May. It's usually safest to wait until after Mother's Day, or until the second half of the month, to plant. It's usually too late by then for a damaging cold snap.

And by the way, check out the cool gardening ideas for Mother’s Day Gifts at Yardiac.com.

No matter the conditions in your area at present, it never hurts to check the weather forecast, growing zones, plant hardiness and other relevant information using the free USDA links in the Smart Gardening Resources table below.

In any case, go straight to the category that interests you most.

INDOORS

Houseplants

• All but the most delicate and finicky houseplants can go outdoors during the warm months. Start moving them out toward the end of May. These include: dracaena, fern, ivy, spider plant, creeping Charlie, mother-in-law’s tongue, ficus trees and even cactus. Just make sure it’s consistently warm enough before you make the move. Put them in a shady, sheltered area as soon as the weather is consistently 60 degrees or above, and that includes nighttime temperatures. Repot them, if needed. Fertilize them and prune leggy winter growth. After a couple of weeks, move them into sunnier areas, but remember that most houseplants cannot tolerate full summer sun and heat. Also, they will suffer shock if there’s a drastic drop in temperature. They also could be damaged by a spring thunderstorm.

• If you have been keeping a poinsettia since Christmas, now is the time to bring it out of partial darkness and into normal light. Cut the stems to within four inches of the soil, reset the plant in a little larger pot and put it in a sunny spot, indoors or outdoors. But don’t put the plant into full sun immediately. Start in a sheltered, shaded area, and gradually move it to full sun over a week or two. Feed and water as with other potted plants.

OUTDOORS

May Tips for Lawn Care

• In early May, you can still apply pre-emergent crabgrass and broadleaf weed controls, though many weeds will have already sprouted. Usually late March and April are the best time for this. But pre-emergent controls applied now will still prevent weed seeds from germinating.

• In mid-May, apply weed-and-feed formula to entire lawn. This includes zoysia, which should be starting to green up. The weed-and-feed application should take care of weeds that are already visible and growing.

• If you are starting a new lawn or have overseeded or patched areas in an existing lawn, fertilize with a lawn-starter formula, not a regular fertilizer, which is too strong.

• Any time month apply insect controls. Granular applications, such as Diazinon or Dursban will help control crawling lawn insects, such as ants, pillbugs, spiders and ticks, etc. Read directions and wear protective clothing.

• In mid- to late May, start mowing grass at 2 to 3 inches high—usually the highest blade setting—for a more lush lawn and to prevent soil moisture loss as the weather gets warmer.

May Gardening With Annuals

• Dahlias, which are tender perennials in northern and central zones, can be planted in May, any time after the danger of frost has passed. They should be in the ground about 2 1/2 months before the really hot weather is over. The latest dahlia’s should be planted is about the second week of June. Insert a stake when you plant so it will be in place when the plants need support.

• Plant zinnia and nasturtium seeds in full-sun areas or in patio pots that get sun.

• Apply a 2 to 4 inch layer of mulch around annual plantings to retain soil moisture and prevent weed growth. Mulch can be shredded bark, compost or other organic material.

• Apply a topical weed preventer, such as Preen, to all flowerbeds and areas where you want to prevent weeds. It also works if applied to the soil before mulch is spread.

May Tips for Bulbs

• When the soil is warm enough, about mid-May in most areas, plant these flowering bulbs, corms and tuberous roots in the ground or in containers:

• If you plant gladiolus in groups every two weeks until mid-summer, you will have continuous blooms until fall.

• Reminder: remove spent blooms from tulips, hyacinth, daffodils and other spring bulbs, but allow the leaves to die down naturally. After this, they can be dug, divided and transplanted.

• Before all bulb foliage has disappeared, mark where bulbs are planted if you intend to cultivate in that area. This way you will avoid accidentally digging them up or damaging them.

• On iris, clip off spent blooms from stalks. After all blooms are finished on a stalk, remove the entire stalk, cutting as close to the base as possible. Allow leaves to remain.

May Gardening With Perennials

• Clean up perennial flowerbeds. Remove last year’s dead growth along with winter debris so that new shoots can get sunlight and air.

• Fertilize all perennials, such as peony, hosta, yarrow, painted daisies and coneflower. Ground covers such as periwinkle and pachysandra could also use a feeding. Use time-release granular fertilizer worked into the soil, or apply a liquid fertilizer using a hose-end sprayer.

• Feed clematis and make sure it is staked firmly and its roots are protected by mulch or other plant growth. It cannot tolerate heat on its roots.

• If you rooted the suckers of hardy chrysanthemums in March or April, now is the time to set them out in the garden.

• Cut back mature chrysanthemums to 2 inches tall. You will continue pinching them — that means nipping off the growing tips - throughout the summer. This helps promote fall bloom.

• To keep down weeds around perennials, sprinkle Preen or any other pre-emergent weed control around them. Mulch also helps control weeds and retain soil moisture. Mulch should be a 2 to 4 inch deep layer of shredded bark, compost or other organic material.

Dividing and transplanting

• Here are some perennials and biennials that can be seeded outdoors or divided and transplanted in May:

Perennials

• Many perennials are in bloom during May. Here are some to look for in your garden:

May Tips for Pests and Diseases

• Watch flower gardens for damage from slugs, flea beetles, ants and cutworms, among others. Early pest control helps reduce the damage and work required. Try sprinkling Diazinon granules around the plants, or work a systemic insecticide into the soil. The plants absorb this and it repels bugs.

• To keep squirrels from damaging plants and digging up flowerbeds, try several items available at the garden center. One is a peppery powder applied to the soil. Another is predator urine that can be applied in various ways. You can also try putting down chicken wire under the mulch.

• Inspect evergreens for signs of pests and disease, especially bagworms. Pick off worm cases and apply controls as needed.

Pruning

• Be careful about pruning this time of year. Many plants, especially flowering trees, shrubs and vines, should not be pruned until after they have flowered. Other types may be pruned now. If you are in doubt about pruning any type of tree or bush, consult a garden manual or ask an expert.

• These flowering trees can be pruned after they have bloomed: dogwood, redbud, magnolia, flowering almond, weeping cherry.

• These flowering vines can be pruned after they bloom: bougainvillea, clematis, honeysuckle, trumpet vine, wisteria.

• These flowering shrubs can be pruned after they bloom: azalea, forsythia, lilac, mock orange, privet hedge, pussy willow, weigela.

• All pruning is better done with sharp cutting implements. Also, look at the plant before you begin chopping away. Decide which limbs to trim. Many gardening books give descriptions of what to cut and what to leave.

May Reminders for Tools and Equipment

• Make sure the lawn mower and all other power garden tools are in good repair. If you haven’t had a lawn mower tune-up yet, it’s not too late—although getting it serviced could take several weeks during this busy season.

• If you haven’t done this in previous months, you should still clean, repair, oil and sharpen all garden tools, such as hoes, shovels, spades and pruning shears. Besides, it’s a good idea to keep your tools in good condition throughout the growing season when you’re using them the most. (See February and March sections on tools and equipment for specifics, including a list of the most commonly used tools.)

• Use a good pair of gardening gloves to prevent blisters, cuts and scrapes when handling equipment and plants. Cotton gloves placed inside sturdy leather gloves prevent sweaty hands and increase comfort.

• Check hoses for leaks and repair them, or replace the hoses. Consider investing in a soaker hose. Also, check the condition of lawn and garden sprinklers. Replace or repair.

• Consider buying a wheelbarrow or "garden cart," or even a child’s wagon to help move heavy loads and transport garden tools and supplies throughout the yard.

May Tips for Trees and Shrubs

• Watch elm trees for "wetwood" disease, a bacterial infection in the heartwood that causes sour-smelling liquid to seep out through wounds in the tree or at a split where two large branches unite. This flow is usually greater in spring and early summer than in July and August. It usually won’t kill the tree, but it’s unsightly and draws insects. Check with an arborist for treatment.

Watering

• Keep newly planted trees and shrubs well watered. Deep watering twice a week encourages root development. Adding mulch to cover the soil will help stop evaporation.

• Do not allow flowerbeds or planters to dry out. This includes hanging baskets. Check them every other day, especially right after transplanting. Flowerbeds need about an inch of water per week, whether from rain or a sprinkler or hose. If there is no rain for 5 to 7 days, give the entire garden about an hour's worth of watering by sprinkler.

Birds

• No need to keep feeding the birds, unless you just want to. They can find plentiful natural food now. Plus, keeping feeders full may draw undesirable pest birds, such as grackles and starlings, along with squirrels and other rodents. Still, some people feed the birds all year long, just because the like watching them.

• Many birds are nesting now. If you find a nest in a bad place, such as too close to the house, clogging a gutter or drainpipe, too low to the ground or in a high-traffic area, do the bird a favor and remove the nest before any eggs are laid. The bird will find another place to nest.

Miscellaneous Tips for May

• Take photos of the garden in May bloom. It will help you remember what is flowering now, what you want to add next year, and what other changes you want to make. Plus, these photos will warm your heart in January!

• Consider purchasing new statuary. These can be large or small, but they all add personality and uniqueness. Fountains are also wonderful. They’re a little more work to install, but they add dramatic beauty and charm to the garden.

• Think about adding other outdoor decorations, such as a sundial, a shepherd’s crook for hanging plants, a flag, a windsock or wind chimes. Lighting also adds a nice touch, and isn’t that expensive or difficult to install.

• In high foot-traffic areas, install a permanent pathway using bricks, stepping stones, blocks or pea gravel held in place by a border.

• To hold in mulch and create a neat appearance, install garden edging. Make it as fancy or as simple as you like. Many kinds are available and some require almost no sweat equity.