March monthly gardening guide

March is a tantalizing month for gardeners. It seems to warm up, but then winter comes charging back. And we're itching to get outside and DO SOMETHING.

Still, there are some outdoor activities possible in March. Perennials can be divided for later transplant.

You can start cleaning out some flowerbeds that don’t have growing bulbs. The early bulbs, like crocus, will be up now. But tulips, daffodils, narcissus and other later bloomers still need some winter protection. They’ll start showing next month.

Soil in flowerbeds is too wet and cold to work, but you can have the soil tested and add amendments, such as lime or granular fertilizer. Sprinkle these on the surface. They will dissolve in the moisture this month. Many people scatter Epsom Salts onto the soil surface. This adds magnesium, a plant nutrient.

Trees and shrubs can be planted this month. It's actually better to plant them in cooler, rather than warmer, weather, in any case. And for fruit trees, March is the time to begin a spraying program to help flowers and fruits develop and chase away harmful pests and diseases.

And a few activities--such as getting a lawn mower tune-up--that are mentioned in March will be repeated a couple of times in successive months, just as reminders.

The reason to consider a lawn mower tune-up in March is to beat the rush. Once the true mowing season starts, you'll be lined up behind all your neighbors.

Also, it's a good idea to start checking the condition of other garden tools. Sharpen, repair, repaint the handles or replace the tools entirely while you're waiting for full spring to arrive.

Another very helpful activity is to check out the Smart Gardening Resources table below, with links to free and vastly informational planting and growing zones information provided by the USDA.

Now for the tips.

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INDOORS

• Go to the complete guide for Starting Seeds on this site for details.

• Also check out instructions for setting up an inexpensive, easily built Indoor Greenhouse of common hardware-store materials, also on this site. It's the perfect way to start seeds and grow them so simply into nursery-quality flowers to transplant all over your yard.

• Flower seeds will start appearing in stores in March. Most garden centers, hardware stores and discount stores with gardening departments will have seed displays. (Make sure the seeds are from the previous year, no later. For example, seeds to be planted in 2008 should be harvested from plants in 2007.)

• Read seed packets for information, such as planting depth, growing height, light and water needs, and whether the plant is perennial (comes up every year) or annual (you must replant every year). Some seeds are expensive, some not. No matter what you spend on seeds, they are a good investment, especially if you start them well and care for them in ideal conditions.

• Here are some of the seeds that can be started in March. Remember to follow the packet planting directions on depth. Also, check the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for outdoor planting times in your region. If you start seeds too early indoors, the little plants will grow to transplant size weeks before you can safely put them in the ground because of weather conditions. However, the plants listed below tend to be more cold tolerant.

• Keep an eye on seedlings that have sprouted indoors. If necessary, carefully move them to larger containers. However, seeds growing in peat pots or in peat disks can remain there until they are transplanted outdoors.

• Apply weak (diluted to 20 percent) liquid flower food to larger seedlings, which are at least two weeks old, or about an inch tall and have two to three sets of true leaves.

Tips for Forcing Bulbs in March

• Make sure bulbs in containers are getting enough light and warmth. Rotate containers to keep plants and flowers from leaning toward the light.

• Water sparingly. You may feed, but it won’t help this year’s bloom. Any feeding in March will go toward producing next year’s flowers. Feed if you plan to keep the bulbs after they bloom indoors. Usually, forced bulbs should be transplanted later outdoors. They don’t do well in the second year of forcing.

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Garden Planning Activities for March

• Create a 12-month gardening calendar.

• Draw up a 12-month gardening budget.

• Design a long-term, general garden plan.

Garden Journaling in March

It’s fun and will help with future planning. Make it your special garden notebook, which could even include poetic musings, clipped out photos of plants you like, photos of your own garden and packets of seeds you have planted. Your journal could include:

• Types of seeds or nursery stock you planted, where they came from, whether they were good quality, any problems you had with the supplier or the stock, plus the planting dates, germination and quality of the seeds you start.

• Work you did last year and the results.

• Questions, problems you need to ask an expert about.

• General observations about your garden—birds, bugs, sun, shade, heat, cold, drought, rain.

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March Tips for Mail Ordering

• Place orders for spring planting as soon as possible. (Check the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for your growing and transition seasons.) The mail order companies will ship your plants at the appropriate time for planting in your region.

• Using the garden plan and budget, decide what you want to plant and where. Try new varieties, new combinations, and consider a different look for your garden this year. Try plant groupings offered by many mail order companies now. These include plants for sunny borders, shady borders, mailbox or light post plantings, annual borders, perennial borders, and even single-color borders.

• When ordering and planning, remember that perennials are a gardener’s best friends. Each year you should invest in some of these plants, which will come up yearly with little effort on your part.

Try a Garden Show in March

• There may still be some flower, lawn and garden shows in your area. Check them out! You will find displays ranging from plants and planting materials to equipment and statuary. You can get new ideas, get questions answered, purchase all kinds of things and hobnob with other gardeners in your area.

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Gardening classes

• As the growing season gears up, look for gardening classes. Some are free. Most have very small fees. They can be on general topics, such as basic plant care, or they can cover specific topics, such as growing roses. Check out garden centers, botanical gardens, community colleges and county extension offices.

• Many states offer, through county extension services, a more intensive course for master gardener certification. These usually cover several weeks and contain detailed horticultural information. You will be tested and must pass to be certified. Plus, most programs will then require you to help staff their gardening hotline or information center. Become a master gardener and be your own “expert”!

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Houseplants

• Feed houseplants this month at half the rate listed on the package. This will encourage new, spring growth and prepare them to be moved outdoors.

• Divide and repot any large or root-bound plants. Choose a pot one inch larger than the old one. In divisions, choose a pot large enough to accommodate some new growth, but not too big for the baby plant. Feed lightly and water thoroughly.

• Dust leaves of houseplants and check for pests. Clip off leggy growth and move to a sunnier spot to encourage new growth.

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OUTDOORS

Lawn Care

• See the March Lawn Care page for additional details.

• Lawn experts do not recommend over-seeing a mature lawn or starting a new lawn in the spring, unless you have obvious bare spots or other problems you are trying to remedy right away. Some of the new lawn-patching materials work well in small areas. In large areas, sod works best. Otherwise, wait until fall to do this kind of lawn makeover.

• If you must start new grass seed in March, this is best done in an established lawn by first aerating or verti-cutting. Aeration, or plugging, pulls out cores of the lawn. Verti-cutting creates furrows, in which the new seed can fall and germinate. You can rent machines that will do these things, or have a lawn service do it.

• Also, de-thatching may be needed in a dense, mature lawn. If you have the energy, you can hand-rake to remove the thatch. Otherwise, you can rent machines that will do this, or have a lawn service do it. There are some de-thatching blades that can be attached to your lawn mower, but some experts say this puts undue wear and tear on your mower. You decide.

• If you are applying a lawn patch material, prepare the soil first by roughing it up with a rake and smoothing any large chunks of soil. Apply the patch evenly and water well. Keep the area watered throughout the germination and new growth period.

• Aeration and/or de-thatching of an established lawn can be done in March. Both help the grass plants “breathe” and encourage new, strong growth. You can rent machines to do this, or contract with a lawn service.

• If you’re not aerating, de-thatching or plugging, use a lawn mower with the blade set high to pick up winter debris from lawns and prepare them for applications of fertilizer and pre-emergent weed controls. Collect, bag and dispose of the debris, or add it to the compost pile.

• Apply pre-emergent weed controls for crabgrass, dandelions and broadleaf weeds. Check the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Pre-emergent controls are most effective when applied in the transition season. That’s usually some time in March or April, before weed seeds have sprouted. (If you miss this application, a weed-and-feed product applied in April and May will kill growing weeds; or you can spot spray dandelions and other weed patches.)

• Most lawns – except zoysia - will benefit from a spring fertilizer in March. This can be applied alone or as part of a weed-and-feed preparation. The weed-killing chemicals in weed-and-feed products will only affect growing weeds. (See above.) Remember that unless you apply some weed controls, you will be feeding the emerging weeds, as well as the grass. Zoysia is dormant now, and won’t be fertilized until it starts greening up, usually in May.

• When fescue and bluegrass starts greening up, cut it short for the first year’s mowing. After that and continuing through mid-May, cut fescue and bluegrass lawns at the middle blade height. Mulch grass clippings through the spring, unless growth is too high and the clippings would smother the growing grass.

• If you have thick ground covers, such as English ivy or vinca major or vinca minor, you can rejuvenate them with a mowing. Set the blade high and mulch, don’t collect, the clippings.

• Do not mow zoysia until April, when you will “scalp” it on a low setting for the first season’s cutting (See the April Lawn Care for details. In most cold winter zones, zoysia is dormant in March.

March Tips for Annuals

• Don’t try to work the soil in flowerbeds yet. It’ll be too soggy in most regions, and you’ll just get clumps of dirt that will harden and make matters worse later. Besides, you may disturb seeds and bulbs that are sprouting.

• If decide to plant seeds outdoors, cultivate only the area that will be planted. Mark the area after planting so seedlings won’t be disturbed during later cultivation. This will also help you distinguish between the flowers and any weeds that have sprouted.

• The following seeds can be planted outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked—that is, when the soil unfreezes, dries out and softens enough to be turned over by a spade or pitchfork. This is generally the transition season. Remember to check the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to be sure it is time in your area.

• Gently rake debris out of flowerbeds and away from fences and shrubs. Be careful not to remove protective mulch layers or disturb bulb growth.

• If you have mature pansies, which are hardy in the transition season, you can plant them outdoors in March. But if there is extreme cold or an expected ice or snowstorm, cover them with a sheet or a tarp for protection.

• Also, if you have started cool weather plants, such as pansies, from seed indoors, they can be put outdoors to harden off for a few days before transplanting. They will survive some cool-to-cold weather in the transition seasons of early spring. But they won’t do well in snow or ice, so consider that. If a storm is forecast, cover the seedlings, or bring them back inside for the duration. After they have hardened off for about 7 days, transplant them into the ground. Containers may be too cold to plant in March.

• March is also the time to scatter wildflower seeds. Pick an area where they can grow with abandon, or choose an area that is well contained. Follow the planting instructions on the packet. Wildflowers, with their varied heights and colors, can be very pretty in a large open area and often produce lots of cut flowers. Many wildflower packages also contain large zinnias and tall marigolds. However, “wildflowers” are basically meadow flowers (some would say “flowering weeds”) and will grow with abandon and quickly overtake an area. A wildflower seed packet may also contain weed seeds, so watch for weeds and pull them out quickly. An advantage is that wildflowers are mostly perennials, and will re-seed prodigiously. You will likely see them come up the following next year.

• If you have ornamental grass, now is the time to cut it back to about 5 inches high. Also, remove debris that may have gotten stuck in the dormant grass clumps. These can also be divided and transplanted in March.

Tips for Bulbs in March

• Early bloomers, such as crocus and snowdrops will be up in March. Others, such as daffodils and tulips, will be starting to emerge. Don’t be too quick to remove their winter cover of fallen leaves (unless they are deep and heavily matted) and any decorative mulch or shredded leaf mulch (which you made with your lawnmower) until the bulb shoots are a couple of inches tall. March still has plenty of cold weather left, and possibly snow. This cover will protect tender sprouts.

• To help in production of next year’s blooms, feed bulbs that are starting to show green sprouts. The feeding this year won’t help the current season’s blooms, which are living off the nutrients already in the bulb. However, the bulb will begin storing new food for next year. The roots are drawing in nutrients while the bulbs are pushing up and producing this year’s leaves. That is the time to feed them. After blooms appear, the roots start dying and no longer absorb nutrients.

March Tips for Perennials

• Feed peonies and iris. The buds from peony crowns just below the soil should start becoming visible. Iris also will be peeking up.

• Watch for perennials, such as chrysanthemums, daisies and dianthus, that have been “heaved up” by the freezing and thawing of soil during the winter. Firm them back down, taking care to cover all exposed roots.

• Lightly apply a granular fertilizer to soil around perennials. A time-release fertilizer is ideal, but a good general fertilizer will also do. Cultivate the soil lightly, add the granules, and then replace any mulch that must be moved.

• While fertilizing, you can add soil amendments, such as lime or iron that are needed. A soil test helps determine these. Many gardeners add a sprinkling of Epsom salts to flowerbeds. This adds magnesium sulfate to the soil.

• If you decide to plant seeds or divide and transplant perennials in March (see next section), or if you have received rootstock by mail order, prepare the perennial beds. Begin by removing debris. When doing this, take care not to disturb existing plants that are still dormant. (Ideally, you have marked these places!) Add soil amendments, if needed. Cultivate only the area that will be planted. Mark that area after planting so seeds and roots won’t be disturbed during later cultivation. This will also help you distinguish between them and any weeds that sprout later.

Dividing and Transplanting in March

Depending on your growing season and the weather conditions, you can seed or divide and transplant many perennials and biennials in the early spring. Check the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for the growing season in your region. Early spring is the transition season and the beginning of the growing season. Here is a list of some plants to try.

Pests and diseases

• Check peonies for fungus disease and apply treatment.

• Apply dormant oil spray to fruit trees and berry bushes to deter scale and insects.

• Watch iris for signs of borers—chewed leaf edges and slimy trails. Apply chemical controls as needed.

Pruning

• Prune late-flowering clematis now — but be careful. Make sure you have that type of plant. Pruning in March on the wrong type of clematis can destroy this year’s flowers. Check gardening manuals or ask an expert, if you are not sure.

• You can safely trim spruce trees in the early spring. Follow details in a good gardening manual, or seek professional advice or help.

• Don’t trim fruit or ornamental trees that have started to bud. Fruit trees generally should be pruned while dormant, either in the late fall or late winter. Consult and expert here. Ornamental or flowering trees should not be pruned until after they flower in the spring.

• Trim grapevines and raspberry and blackberry bushes in the early spring.

• Prune pines, firs, and hemlocks after new growth is started.

• Do not prune birch, maple or walnut trees until after they have leafed out.

• Prune butterfly bush, spirea, Rose-of-Sharon and other summer-flowering bushes in the early spring.

• Prune to two or three main stems on mature climbing honeysuckle, and make sure supports are firmly attached.

Garden Tools

• (See February and April monthly guides for a list of garden tools and specifics on checking their condition.)

• If you haven’t done it yet, get a lawn mower tune-up. The later in the season you wait, the busier the lawn service shops will be. A lawn mower tune up should be done every year. It should include blade sharpening, replacement of spark plugs and filters, and should include any other repairs necessary to keep the mower in top running condition.

• Again, look over all your gardening tools, the large ones and the hand-sized ones, if you haven’t done so already. Clean, sharpen, oil and replace them, if needed. Check the condition of hoses, sprayers and sprinklers. Some hose leaks can be repaired with a kit, but if hoses have many cracks or holes, it’s best to replace them.

• Don’t forget to examine your gardening gloves, and buy new ones, if necessary. Many a callous and blister can be avoided with good gloves.

Trees and shrubs

• You may begin planting trees and shrubs, when weather permits. If the weather is dry, remember to water them.

• If you have fruit trees, you may want to apply dormant oil spray this month on a day that is above 40 degrees. Consult an expert or gardening book for details on the care of fruit trees, especially if you are planning to harvest the fruit.

• If extreme cold weather is over in your region, remove protective wrap that was applied last fall to the trunks of young trees. This will allow spring and summer growth.

• A great tree-information source I recommend is the Arbor Day Foundation, which has encyclopedic information and photos of all kinds of trees you may be interested in planting. The main aim is to get people to plant more trees and to educate the public.

Watering

• Watering is needed this month for any newly planted trees and shrubs, especially if the period has been dry. However, if future hard freezes are expected, remember to turn off the outdoor water supply when you are finished, or you may have frozen pipes!

Birds

• Continue feeding the birds this month. They will begin pairing and nesting and need the nutrition. Migrating birds will be drawn to your yard. Some birds, such as robins, eat bugs, not seed. But most birds, during the summer, will eat the bugs that attack your plants!

• A word about grackles and other "nuisance" birds: if you find these large, loud birds taking over the bird feeder, it might be wise to bring it inside. Cow birds, grackles and blackbirds start appearing in March. They travel in flocks and will be searching for nesting sites. If they find your bird feeder, they will take over the yard.

• To attract birds, such as tiny wrens and other songbirds, put out birdhouses for them to nest in. Cardinals nest in trees and thickets. Robins, in trees. And sparrows, well, wherever they can, it seems! (One spring a sparrow was determined to build a nest above the light on my patio.) But bluebirds, wrens and finches will very happily built nests in little houses that you provide. Attach them securely and in places where predators cannot easily reach.

Miscellaneous

• When you receive mail order plants—rootstock or bulbs and corms—unwrap them immediately. If you cannot plant them right away, store them in a cool, dry place.

• For an indoor project, you can force early indoor blooming of flowering bushes and trees, such as forsythia, pussy willow, apple, plum and redbud tree branches. Carefully clip off some small branches — not too many — that have well developed buds and bring them indoors. Put the stems in water and good light and they should bloom! Makes a pretty decoration.

• It’s early, but start taking photos outdoors in March. It will be the start of a season-by-season photo book of your garden. In some regions, the flowering trees and shrubs may be blooming, or about to bloom. Crocus and snowdrops will also be up. You may forget where they are during the summer, when they have died down.

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